Why J-POP and Anime T-Shirts Are Taking Over Japan’s Vintage Scene
Japanese pop culture news edited by Patrick Macias
As the casual vintage boom cools in Japan, core fans are driving a shift toward more niche, culturally rooted pieces like anime and J-POP tees over mass-appeal Western band shirts.
Japan’s vintage market is evolving into a cultural archive, where clothing becomes a way to express identity through shared media memories.
Vintage clothing has become a core element of Japanese fashion, and nowhere is that more obvious than at the VCM VINTAGE MARKET. This is one of the country’s largest gatherings for retro enthusiasts. Held twice a year, the event draws huge crowds of fans and trendwatchers eager to dig through racks of secondhand treasures. On April 19 in Yokohama, Fashionsnap visited the market to see what’s trending now and what might be coming next.
With temperatures nearing summer levels, many attendees stuck to just one layer (a T-shirt) while navigating the densely packed venue. Eye-catching music tees stood out the most. Classic band shirts featuring Red Hot Chili Peppers, Nirvana, and Pink Floyd were especially popular among visitors of all ages. T-shirts featuring Bjork and the Fugees also made frequent appearances, highlighting the lasting appeal of music nostalgia in vintage fashion.
Although foreign musicians have long dominated the vintage tee scene, a new wave is quietly emerging: J-POP artist shirts. This year’s market featured standout displays of tees from 1990s Japanese pop icons like Yumi Matsutoya and Princess Princess. Notable examples included a shirt from Matsutoya’s 1994 album The Dancing Sun and a 1996 tour tee from Princess Princess. These pieces signaled growing demand for vintage apparel tied to domestic pop culture in Japan.
Anime Tees Compete for the Spotlight
Anime-themed T-shirts were another major draw and rivaled music tees in popularity. While authentic vintage anime shirts remain popular, newer designs are also fueling interest. Brands such as GEEKS RULE and Saint Mxxxxxx have released recent anime collaborations, adding momentum to the trend. Harajuku-based shop chillweeb, known for anime apparel, has even launched a new line in collaboration with Masamune Shirow. With more stores offering reprints, exclusive orders, and collectible posters, anime culture is clearly gaining ground in vintage fashion.
Couples in Vintage: Matching Looks on the Rise
Now in its sixth edition, VCM VINTAGE MARKET also saw a noticeable increase in couples and families. While the vintage boom that began around 2020 seemed to cool in 2024, interest is holding steady thanks to appearances on TV, YouTube, and social media by popular idols and comedians. Many couples showed up wearing matching band, movie, or anime T-shirts. This suggests that vintage fashion in Japan has become a shared lifestyle choice.
Shifting Markets, New Proposals
Several vendors noted that the rush of casual shoppers from the vintage boom has begun to taper off. Even so, graphic tees inspired by music, anime, movies, and art remain in demand, especially with hotter-than-average summers expected to continue. Practical and expressive, the T-shirt remains a staple with staying power.
Meanwhile, prices for true vintage pieces, meaning rare and collectible items from past decades, continue to climb. Some younger fans, drawn in by the original boom, are now investing serious money into premium vintage. Many see these items as both fashion statements and collectible assets.
Still, many shoppers view affordability as a key part of vintage’s appeal. A number of shops are now highlighting lesser-known brands and styles that have yet to break into the mainstream. At this year's market, the booth for Vintage Heads stood out for its remade flannel shirts by American workwear brand FIVE BROTHERS. By swapping standard buttons with sleek black originals, they added a touch of originality without sacrificing vintage charm.
What Comes Next?
As more people join the vintage scene, the question is how shops will keep the momentum going. From nostalgic J-POP designs to anime crossovers and clever remakes, Japan’s vintage culture continues to evolve. At events like VCM VINTAGE MARKET, you can see where that evolution is headed, one expensive vintage T-shirt at a time.
Original article via Fashionsnap
Sign up for the Pure TokyoScope Patreon! You’ll get access to full episodes, bonus video content, our Discord server, and an archive of past episodes.
Head over to the TokyoScope Podcast Patreon to subscribe today!
